Iris Cendre Naomi Goodsir for women and men

At first reminded Santal 33 with its pickleness. In 15 min no traces of it just beautiful leathery iris.

The reviewer who said this smelled like licking an envelope is spot on...but I'm obsessed with the smell of licking an envelope. Deeply woody yet perfectly unisex, sensual but not stanky, strong but not loud.

Iris Cendré highlights as many of the facets to come from orris root that can be rendered in one perfume. The distant, aloof coolness is evident; the carrot-rooty earthiness; the violet ionones verging on cosmetic; and the waxy butter dusted with powder. One could argue that this could all be had and more with the seminal Iris Silver Mist; however, Iris Cendré seamlessly enters a warmer, smokier and resinous realm in its development. Violet pastilles by a campfire, and plastic doll heads mingled with clay and dough. Distant cigarette ashes and balsa wood airplane kits bought at Hobbytown. It stimulates memories of numerous childhood memories being fascinated with unusual smells, both from nature and from industry.

It's multi-dimensional, but perhaps to a point where it might elude or give discomfort to some. There are a lot of layers here, each a puzzle for the mind. It almost is perceived as a traditional perfume, but then there is a facet coming from leftfield that stops me in my tracks and has me paying attention to it for a while. This doesn't become scented wallpaper, as over a time there is a peculiar wooliness that makes it feel three-dimensional. From damp, green chill to glowing, round cinder, Iris Cendré's movement through time is to me its biggest appeal. It's definitely one for the iris devotee, not the dabbler, because this is no "set it and forget it." It's an immersive experience and a brilliant work from Julien Rasquinet.

This smells like Barbie dolls in the best way

worst fragrance i've ever smelled

opens up a SUPER plastic-ey green, like i have no idea why it's not in the notes/accords. it's an overpowering violet with a bitter, rooty iris, this is the side of iris you don't see often, and for good reason. it just doesn't smell very good, this fragrance is a bitter purple and plastic-ey green, in a bad way :(

i forced myself to smell this one more time to make sure this is truly how i feel and i was audibly going "no...no...no" when smelling it.

do not smell like this.

1/10

This immediatly reminded me of licking an envelope seal. The glue always has a slight fruitiness to it to cover the chemical taste and the thick paper of the envelope has a dryness to it. I cannot smell anything other than this. ✉️

among the most notable and innovative contemporary takes on iris, one of my favorite ingredients in perfumery. here the florentine flower is offered in flames: suave, smoky, and velveteen with a gritty profile of campfire smoke and nuances of pipe tobacco and violet pastilles. wear this to turn heads at the black tie funeral of a well-to-do arsonist about town, or simply to promenade in the background of a francis bacon portrait.

I'm instantly obsessed with this. This is a very green tobacco-y, rooty iris. Despite the smokiness it's somehow fresh. There is some violet in the opening, but I really don't find it overwhelming as some previous reviewers have said, it adds just a tiny bit of sweetness which is nice. On a synaesthetic level, this brings to mind a bright, grassy green, violet and brown. It's truly unisex too. It just gives an air of empowerment somehow that is hard to describe. It smells confident and unique, like the signature scent of someone stylish, successful and intelligent. When I wear this, I feel like Prue Halliwell from Charmed. Art expert, respected auctioneer, photographer and secretly a witch. Sleek, striking and beautiful.

Honestly, I expected a better scent after Corpus Equus, which is one of the best leather scents I've ever smelled.
Iris Cendre on me smells like birch mixed mith some iris. It isn't bad, but not great.
It's fairly easy to wear, and can be worn all year round.
Nice, but lacks character.

Every time I wear it I close my eyes and listen to what it has to say to me. “Give yourself peace” she often whispers to me, then she hugs me with her innocence that is as withered as it is vulnerable and drags me in front of a small bonfire that is dying out in the immensity of a Nordic clearing. I (in)follow him, I welcome him, without batting an eyelid. Cathartic.

Fourth sample of my set. I'm a huge lover of iris, so this was a slight disappointment to me. I think the violet heavy opening throws me off. It's very sharp and piercing, somewhat hiding the iris behind a screechy gasoline-ish vibe. It dries down to something much more typical, more appealing but man that opening is challenging to me. Almost all of the line start out quite sharp and challenging and turn into something much different. How intriguing! I expected to love this but it's not my favorite of the line so far. It's much better on skin, less harsh but unfortunately doesn't last on me. I get 4-5 hours max and by an hour it's already a skin scent. Nice, but not a "wow".

I bought 4 samples of this and I love it! To me, it is overwhelming violet (which is my favorite scent of all). There is some smoke to it which I don't mind at all. Usually the violet I like is very powdery (like Apres l'ondee by Guerlain) or very sweet (like Violettes de Toulouse by Berdoues) but this is great. My only complaint is it doesn't last very long. I need to reapply every 2-1/2 hours for me to even smell it. I'm working my way up to saving some money to buy a full bottle. I love it.

Disappointed hits the most when you have high expectations
I write this review with a heavy heart as if it is my own disappointed
The story goes like this
Went to a concept store saw the whole “goodsir”
Collection started spraying them on blotters and the moment I smelled this I asked for a bottle
Another mistake you learn with experience but I was convinced nonetheless
Went home sprayed on my hand it seemed less sparkly in a way I don’t know maybe it was my skin chemistry
Next day sprayed it on my clothes and it was an instant regret
It hit hard I was struggling trying to enjoy the scent but it was weak although I sprayed a lot
I think the fabric I was wearing wasn’t compatible with the notes I felt on cotton it was a little better
I wish it was as good as I smelled it on a piece of paper but it wasn’t

This one is so weird! I want to love it for its uniqueness alone. Iris often smells like butter or plastic to me - this one manages to do both at the same time. It's like looking at a plastic replica of butter as a part of a child's dollhouse playset.

If fragrances can all be described as a color, this one is halfway between transparent and opaque, a mottled piece of thick plastic with a very slight yellow tinge.

I don't get any spicy notes or citrus notes, and no ambers sweetness at all on my usually very sweet skin. The florals (violet?) I get are extremely stiff and powdery. The labdanum bolsters the buttery richness of the iris, and there is the faintest tobacco.

I can't stop smelling this, it is such a unusual mix. But I only think it is okay? I'll have to re-try this again later.

I am head over heels for this scent right now. The only other iris scents I am really familiar with are Iris Silver Mist by Serge Lutens, which is much more one-dimensional, and the Santa Maria Novella Iris scent, which does not even smell like iris to me. In my opinion an iris scent should smell like a new Macbook, which this does. It has that same metallic scent that the Lutens scent has, but it has a much stronger and much more sensual base that makes it smell overall less powdery and sharp. I get woody notes in the base, which isn't in the pyramid on this page. Anybody who is even remotely curious about iris needs to try this!

If you’ve ever been, this smells exactly like the horse stables during the Royal Agricultural Winter Fair in Ontario. Powdery, hay-like, leathery, animalic, but sweet/floral from the leather oil, soap and shampoo for the horses.

Very interesting!

Very green, bitter, slightly spicy and very dry iris in the opening. There is a strong iris-like scent here, but I wonder if it is some sort of synthetic molecule, because while this is not sweet at all, it feels cloying and suffocating, which is a reaction I usually get from the modern "molecules" in perfume nowadays. I can't smell any other flower, besides the iris and the violet. There is the distinct smell of wet ash, like a fire pit left out in the rain, which is a little too weird for my taste. There isn't much evolution within the first few minutes, but after about 15 it softens a bit and the amber in the base smooths the edges. The tobacco note is there, but it isn't too strong. After a couple of hours the base is a pleasant, powdery amber, quite elegant. I like the base, but I'd have to endure about 30 minutes of unpleasantness to get there.

I am a big fan of this brand. Naomi Goodsir's perfumes tend to be avant garde and artistic; perhaps not the most wearable, but they are interesting, beautiful compositions made with good quality materials. Iris is one of my favourite notes, its melancholic powdery quietness a thing of irresistible beauty, so Iris Cendré was one I was particularly excited to try. It is what it says on the tin - an ashy iris. It is the closest thing I have encountered to Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist - the definitive iris to beat all irises, and one of my favourite perfumes. Like ISM, IC is steely grey, rooty and powdery, but a lot of the dry greyness comes from the ash note here. The bottle is utterly chic and minimalist, and it is housed in an eco-friendly box (a little awkward to open and reuse for storage, but that's just a small gripe!). There is a prominent musky amber base here that differentiates this from ISM - not my favourite facet of this scent, but it works.

IC opens with iris, initially surprisingly green and becoming increasingly powdery as it develops. The citrus is very fleeting - simply adding a little tartness to the opening. I don't get much else - it is iris-dominant, particularly at its opening. Rooty and grey, it is likely rendered by carrot seeds. Some powdery violet emerges, playing second fiddle to the iris after a little while. The tobacco follows, adding a smoky undertone earlier on than I expected. Incense enhances the smokiness, but it is mostly given by the tobacco note. Soft spices are evident here too.

The amber undertone emerges early, initially dry and leathery but becoming increasingly musky as it develops. It complements the iris-violet accord nicely, but personally, I would prefer IC without it. It dries down to become primarily musky, complementing the powdery iris note that prevails. Subtle smokiness remains until final fade, with a whisper of iris remaining. Sillage is moderate and longevity is long-lasting. It is a spring daytime scent - I like to layer this under Chanel No. 19 EDP to enhance the iris.

A dry, unisex take on iris, this is far from lipstick-y despite its powderiness. A very grey iris, made even more so by the ashy tobacco, this is ISM with added ash and musk. Olfactory art that is also wearable. A great composition featuring a beautiful iris note at its core. A good option for those who miss ISM. 4/5.

Iris is not traditionally masculine, but as I continue to stoke my frag-head curiosities (or obsessions…) I have grown curious about all notes and will happily go outside of my comfort zone to experience new things. I had no idea where to start with Iris, and chose this, as I think anything and everything I have tried from NG is a work of pure art. I was not disappointed in this at all. NG as a house doesn’t necessarily have a DNA sort of thing that defines it to me, but every frag I’ve tired makes sense alongside one another in their offerings. That said, this is a very mature and beautiful scent. I struggle deciding if any of the NG offerings are office appropriate but this might be the tamest scent I’ve tried so far. As a guy, I really like throwing something floral in my frag line up to mix things up. I’ve heard of Iris scents as being “lipstick-y” and this definitely has a touch of that in it. Overall, I would say this feels light and airy, but there is a touch of heaviness in it with the incense and amber notes. Looking forward to trying more Iris, and more from NG.

Great signature scent for a villain

Iris cendre is imo the iris fragrance for the true iris enthusiast. A massive sticky powdery earthy but clearly ‘cosmetic’ accord of iris sits front and centre and parchment like leathery tobacco in the back, outlining this big iris composition. For the sake of accuracy I get more of a bright but sweet and creamy violet transitioning into a deeper oilier earthier iris slowly releasing the leather pandanus and tobacco facets.

To be completely honest it is too intense for me, the same way something more mainstream like Valentino Uomo is, but times 10. I enjoy it for a few minutes but I soon long for more than ‘just’ a thick and bulky iris over a smoky background. That being said those of you who really love a bold and vivid iris should definitely check this out.

Not my favorite from the house. I get a cool iris like iris silver mist, but it's got this animalic edge like a raw animalic unprocessed leather edge. I think the violet has something to do with that.

It makes me a little nasueous, rare for a fragrance to do that to me.

Now, it's a little weird... I haven't smelt ash on many occasions but I think this smells very similar to what I remember, but with an oddly beautiful floral background (iris, violet... beautiful purple flowers) and a little bit of incense. It's quite a nice fragrance, if not a bit bizarre. I won't say it's the weirdest thing, though. It also doesn't project much which I don't always find to be an issue but when I have to put my nose to my wrist to even smell it, I have a problem. It doesn't last as long as the others from the line but that's okay. Smells lovely, just wish it performed better I guess.

عطر ديور هوم بدون اي نوتات سويتيه يعني ريحه روج على مكياج على كراتين هذا هو العطر

Bouquets of purple flowers on the funeral home table, a platter of fresh-sliced green peppers to sustain grieving loved-ones. Just out of frame, an urn of still-warm ashes.

Do I like it? Would I wear it? This s$*% is art, it doesn’t care what I think.

It's a lovely bitter floral, severe and sharp, like a garden trapped in a silver box. It has hints of vintage compositions but doesn't fully go there.
Starts with an incredible dynamic opening: bright, balm-y, vegetal, earthy rather than rubbery (almost like a dirty vetiver on my skin) followed by an anise note with the citrus. The tingly feeling fades as it dries and it becomes more warm, flowery and soapy, dry with almost no sweetness to it and finaly it goes to that warm labdamum base that seems to be present in almost all the fragrances from Naomi.

It's a juicy, rubbery green iris, as if violets became an alien vegetable and released liquid the moment you bit into them- like the juice of a jicama root. It's a texture of iris I haven't really come across before. Surprisingly not much powder either- it's there in small amounts, but it's left to dissipate into a cool, airy fog along with the purple violets, which are on equal standing with the iris. The texture is almost leathery, and it's the incense and tobacco that are probably giving this darker, weathered impression. They don't really stand out as perceptible notes themselves. The green impression fades after an hour or so and it becomes more typically iris-based but resembles a freshly picked vegetable for a while. The more I sit with it the more it resembles the aroma of a bell pepper actually, and the similarities to Nuit de Bakelite become more apparent. It's interesting but I'm not sure when I'd wear it, and that's typical of this house so far.

I dunno if it's the iris-violet combo, but this one comes on WAAAY too green. WAAAY too green. At first, I felt like there had to be fig leaf or something like that in the mix, but it is not the case.
The iris and violet are juicy delicious, but unfortunately it is smothered by this green note. Way too smothered. I would have to say no to this, it's just too much of a distraction for me...

Cold, ashy, powdery. No sweetness. Mainly aromatic herbals in the opening. Soft brown leather effect.
4.5/10

Vintage leather jacket with powdery flower: this is a sweeter and softer Amber Kiso. It's a very round fragrance, with lots of amber, and small hints of spice. Smells like irises have been sprinkled into rolling paper and smoked under a full moon. Very ethereal.

According to designer Naomi Goosir, fragrance is another way of expressing raw materials.
"My inspiration comes from texture. I do a lot of layers with fabrics and leather, and fragrance is also about texture."
Through her perfumes, I was able to gain an in-depth understanding of her creative concept, what the "texture" of her perfumes is, what the raw materials are, and how to convert them into scents. Her and the perfumer's ability to express is perfect.
Iris Cendre is directed by Julien Rasquinet.
These materials do exist.
But not any of the above descriptions, according to the fragrance, time ratio, and feel, I think...it is closer to a violet iris. It is generally not said that this is iris leather or incense iris.
This work is not based on vanilla.
Iris with a feminine gender spectrum, wear it. Outstanding and elegant temperament, suitable for dresses with chiffon.
Amber Cistus base, sweet vegetable oil, I found that it is what we call "labdanum".
It can make the powdered orris root and violet smell more oily and smooth without being too dry.
The presence of leather, tobacco and incense is not as high as that of orris root and violet. You can smell the difference between primary and secondary, and the supporting roles don't steal the show.
A thin layer of powder on the silky overlay of iris and violets, not heavy, but not erratic.

A creamy Iris butter... Intoxicating & dreamy! There is a cooling effect, as if the iris and violet petals have been frozen and then lightly sprinkled with powdered sugar! I also get suede leather. Very pleasant!
Every single perfume by Naomi Goodsir is a masterpiece! I already purchased 2 full size bottles (Or du Serail & Cuir Velours).
Edit: Stays for days on clothing & lingers in the air.

As other mentioned it has dry, ashy quality. For me it smells like I would imagine, dried iris flowers laying on a dinning table next to an ashtray. Might not seem appealing but it somehow is really pleasant scent. Really unique. Definitely not a crowd-pleaser. You will for sure stand out.

6,5/10

Again, Naomi Goodsir is brave with how they allow their perfumers to experiment. A strange, elusive fragrance. An iris field with ash drifting down over it. A bit of rain, a cloudy day.

I don't know how easily I will wear this scent. I have tried a couple of times but it is so odd on me. I have never smelled ash before, but it is a true ash scent. It does not smell like smoke at all to me. It doesn't smell campfire-y. All I get is Iris, ash, and rain. It is a very solemn and sad scent. Beautiful and melancholy.

The lasting power is good for me, but the sillage is so so.

Strangest fragrance I've had thus far. Whilst I like it, I can't wear it, I find it headachy. Well done on such an interesting scent, though!

Smoky ashy iris indeed. As the name tells you.
The notes for this don't exactly follow that pyramid on me. They're a little all over the place. I get an initial blast of smoke and a bitter citrus - the bergamot and orange I assume. A little more powdery iris comes in later with other floral hints. Not sweet. At all. Settles into a bit of richer tobacco and amber, but still that iris and incense. It almost goes to a deep garden green too.
I've tried this a couple of times now trying to figure it out.
I tend to like incense and smoke in scents and I keep returning to my arm/wrist for another sniff.
It's interesting in the way that a couture dress is - beautiful and kind of haunting, iris under a grey sky, but not sure I'd wear it.
I do want to try more from this house.

azure flowers slipped under chantilly lace corselette. warm rainfall cried from ashen clouds. tinny church bells hugging under steeple, flèche circled with incense beckoning quiet funerary grace and dusty bible pages. trembling thin wrist in need of nourishment reaching for a silver spoon. damp grass peeping from concrete, shaded by sky laden with overcast.

endlessly elegant, iris cendre is fine silk in a bottle. iris is front and center, clean-cut, cool, and refined, almost austere despite its comforting draw. so full and justified in its presence, it is as if i can reach out and feel its petals—waxy, gummy, and buttery, to the point of becoming what i feel is best described as "chewy." indeed, the scent's silhouette is nearly palpable, and while i may not be able to take a bite out of it, i feel completely nourished each time i smell it on my skin. violet plays a supporting role, lifting the iris up further into the spotlight, kindly offering even more softness, but remaining humble enough to avoid spilling chalky powder everywhere. a subtle dustiness present manages to stay comforting and far from stuffy, like an old book at home in a towering bookshelf. incense wafts throughout the scent cloud, silver ribbons of smoke softening all they kiss, with semi-sweet tobacco as the finishing touch, providing a perfect amount of warmth, reminding me that everything will be okay.

iris cendre makes me feel underdressed, in need of black lace gloves and a velvet pillbox hat with a veil. regal and sophisticated, yet so gloomy and distant. so strangely sad and happy at the same time, a bittersweet scent. i find myself craving it on dreary days when raindrops stream down foggy windows, and i think it would be perfect for a less-than-jovial church service. dark and solemn, but hopeful never the less.

my friend, who recommended that i try it in first place, says that iris cendre is more than just a "good smell," transcending the category of scented-commodity, sharing space with replenishing necessities such as hearty, starchy stews containing radishes, carrots, and other root vegetables. i do find myself craving it periodically, especially in the cold, as if it were a comforting meal from a concerned relative on a winter day, full of much-needed calories.

songs for iris cendre: grey skies by turquoise days, telephone by iron curtain, cindirella by pro memoria.

A beautiful, super dry iris that wears quite close to the skin. No sweetness whatsoever. Introspective, elegant, but intriguing and with an air of mystery.

I consider this and Balenciaga Paris to be the two outstanding examples of how to make purple flowers feel contemporary.

I'm not sure if this is just my skin chemistry or my nose today, but all I got was an overpowering smoky blast which made me smell like the worst part of a bonfire. Once it settles down I really have to sniff because there's hardly anything, I get a faint iris smell, a bit of incense and mandarin. There is still a whiff of smokiness which is okay. Not my favourite by any stretch of the imagination. I've not tried anything smoky before so I guess that's just not my thing.

Another of this genre that I can appreciate - with all the ambers and spices that support the iris. Also, somehow violet seems to be a note that - in my opinion - elevates these make up bag scents to a nicer level. The iris is still too dominant for me to enjoy on myself *personally* but for you make up bag lovers, this is a treat. This is quite dry not sweet one bit. Leathery drydown.

** 10 pack of iris / powdery / make up bag niches (luckyscent) like this one available for swap - UK - PM me! **

First up, I really love Naomi's approach to crafting the perfume collection. Of which my clear winner is Nuit de Bakélite.

Now on Iris Cendre, it is beautiful, succulent-powdery-irisy, amber-chocolatey, dusty and slightly musty in an artful manner.

If you enjoy Shalimar Initial/ Dior Homme Intense - I think you'll like this. But also in this light, you likely can find cheaper alternatives that portray the same olfactory DNA.

Performance is the softest/ weakest of the Naomi Goodsir line up.

PS. Ordered the sample set from Naomi's official website (France) with affordable EU shipping- customer service was prompt and amazing!

Worth sampling, but would not recommend as a FB blind buy.

This is a cross between Anatole Lebreton’s ‘Incarnata’ and Masque Milano’s ‘L’Attesa’. A lipsticky iris with a hairspray vibe. I’m unmoved.

This is a experience you should allow yourself.
I can´t find any other word than that this is EXCITING.
That´s exactly what i am feeling wearing this fragance.
Everything i have tried from Naomi Goodsir is stand-out fragances.

Cuir Velours is fantastic and - for me - wearable.

I´ve had Nuit de Bakèlite and Or de Serail also, both are very special, but to challenging for me. That doesn´t mean i dislike them, but i can´t wear them, they are not for me.

Iris Cendré is absolutely great. I want this in my collection! The flowers and tobacco is a strange combination, how is it possible to make that work?

Turns into a skinscent fast, be aware of that. But who cares? Just spray some more on you!

This is one of the few fragrances that comes close to being signature-worthy for me, given the skill of its composition, its harmony between timeless notes and contemporary aesthetics, its relatively low price point, and its refreshing (but not alienating) uniqueness. All of the fragrances released by Naomi Goodsir are outstanding in all of these areas, but this is my favorite so far, and one of the most wearable.

It seems to me that it would theoretically be difficult to marry green notes to smokey ones; they are in some ways polar opposites, and cannot coexist without clashing horribly. Yet it's the union between sappy-rooty iris and subtle incense that acts as the olfactory motor of Iris Cendré. (I've noticed that many sites, including Fragrantica, drop the acute accent on the final letter. It doesn't make a huge difference: "Iris Cendre" would translate to "Iris-Ash" or perhaps "Cinder/Ember-Iris" whereas "Iris Cendré" is closer to "Ashen Iris" or even "Charred Iris", plus there's significant difference in pronunciation. But I digress.)

Here, the bridge between the delicate smoke and marginally more assertive iris is a perfectly calibrated tobacco note, which carries both a leafy-herbal side and a pungent-green one. It's this almost invisible yet exquisite parquet that allow the titular iris and ash to dance together. And what a dance! A bit melancholy, of course, but not at all stifling or ecclesiastical; neither the smoke of the bonfire nor that of the priest's censer. The iris brings contemplation, but also hope, the forward-looking glance of spring and growth, pale stalks from the cool, dewy-sweet ashes. Thanks to the wet violet note, it never falls back into pure earthiness, nor desiccates into taut leather or mineralic carrot, as orris sometimes can. I get the barest wisp of labdanum to add some body, but to my nose, the other listed notes aren't individually detectable.

I would not call Iris Cendré a complex perfume, but rather an extremely well executed and impeccably balanced one. And despite its tenderness, it's certainly not weak or fleeting. It's one of those fragrances that you can apply decadently and in profusion and it will never inundate the nose. Enrapture it, beckon to it, yes. But with such suavity and grace, the mournful glory of dawn faced with its own dissolution, knowing that high noon is yet to arrive.

Timeless, ageless, genderless, best in spring and autumn; crepuscular and nocturnal, certainly. A new favorite, a new friend.

Superb! again all my bows to Naomi. Such a dry iris.That's what makes this unisex and not feminine (with that lipsticky feel). I cant pick any of the top notes, it's quite linear.Overall an incredibly dusty atmosphere envelopes you, aromatic and flowery, sometimes buttery. Strange mix. Can't wait to see how she would treat citruses,fig or vetiver.
Don't expect nothing from her, pure bliss and enjoyment!(nuit de bakelitè on top forever)

A bit green, a bit innocent, a bit dark but has something familiar that takes you back to your safest place... I

I have nothing as serene as this in my collection. It's like the back of a sheepskin rug in a gypsy caravan when the tin stove is lit and burning under a clear starry night sky. Perfect amount of projection

The opening reminds me of Serge Lutens' austere cool, Iris Silver Mist - with a bit more warmth to it. But after it dries down and settles about 45 min in, it transforms into a remarkable likeness of Giorgio Armani Prive Cuir Amethyste - which always reminds me of an expensive hotel lobby...

I'm with trabuquera, below. This is not-enough-iris, too-much-ash on me personally, and I had to scrub it off after a goodly time spent grimacing and waiting for it to evolve. On my skin, it didn't pass beyond the smell of despair. Not a blind buy, but again my nose has its own ideas and cares not one damn about Luca, marketing or subtlety, it only says, NEXT. Sorry... x

واقعا این عطر از همه نظر عالی هست. زنبق متفاوت و به شدت باکلاس. البته تمام این خوبیها به انضمام پرفورمنس خوبش دلیلی بر همه کس پسند بودنش نیست و البته عطر هر جا نیست. قطعا باید دلتون اولویت داشته باشه براتون تا این عطر رو بپوشید. احسنت به تو جولین راستکین و احسنت به نائومی.

Naomi Goodsir releasing an Iris/Ash perfume? Sign me up. I love Bois D’Ascese, everything orris and smokey, and “ashey” incense perfumes. I blind purchased a bottle as soon as it was released a couple years ago. I wore it regularly at first and loved it.
But eventually, the problem I had with Iris Cendre was that in addition to the advertised Iris and Ash, this very abstract scent is atleast equally about violet and a sort of chilled honeydew effect. The whole scent feels moist and cool when the word “Cendre” had me expecting something hot and arid. Even the ash note feels like it got soggy and smells more like wet concrete. Going into it as an iris lover and a smokey scent lover kind of set me up for a little disappointment. Looking back (I sold my bottle on Ebay during a perfume purge), it’s a pleasant, modern twist on Jaques Fath Iris Gris that I sometimes miss. It’s a good one even if the name threw me for a loop.

Oh dear. I would probably fight someone with my bare hands to reach the last bottle of Goodsir's Bois d'Ascese in the world, but this one fell worse-than-flat on me. Iris and I are not always the best of friends anyway, though there are iris scents I've liked and even loved; but this one - despite the expense - smells of nothing but a sad, muddy, wet grey wool rug on my skin. Really faint, and what little of it I could smell was just lanolin and sandy dirt. And what makes it worse was that I almost-bullied someone selling me an FB of something else, into sending me a free couple of ml of this as an added favour. Oops.

I think I might just have a smell malfunction when it comes to iris. From what I could tell, this is indeed high-class, organic, totally unisex, un-sweet, un-cloying gear - but it's just not for me. Definitely not a safe blind buy in case this bizarre fiasco happens to your perception too.

It's all about the rainbow flower, the iris but with an interesting twist. The violet is low key all the way through. Tobacco and incense are listed but they are very low key on me at first but strangely seem to get stronger further down the timeline. Looking at the list of notes you would be forgiven if you imagined quite an avant guard creation. The spices, labdanum, sweetness and orange are very low key. It closes with tobacco, incense and a little iris.
I really imagined there might be a similarity with John Gallianos first fragrance. Nope this is all about the iris with a little twist.
I get good longevity and sillage. A very unisex fragrance so fellas do try this lovely.

Mother and Child by pablo picasso 1901 Cambridge, Harvard Art Museums

This scent throws me right back to my childhood weekends,when I used to go horse riding. Now, Iris Cendre doesn't smell like a horse (no worries, although horses smells divine), but to me this scent is an exact replica of what it used to smell like in the saddle room. There all the bridles and saddles were cleaned with saddle soap, and then sometimes greased up with leather conditioner, after every horse riding class. This is Iris Cendre to me. Lovely, beautiful, nostalgic and comforting. Divine, actually. But I don't know if I want to smell like this, preferably, I would like to use this as a home fragrance. But it is worth buying a full bottle of Iris Cendre, nevertheless, because this powdery iris-leather perfume is wonderful.

سلام.اینقدر این عطر کار خوبیه که نمیشه با تسکت توصیفش کرد.هنه خودتان هم بقیه لذت خواهند برد

Smells like a well worn chesterfield couch. This stuff is beautiful.

A strange scent that puts you in a pensive and reflective mood. I don't get 'smoke' or 'leather'... rather a misty, vapid cloud of 'grey' feeling iris. This 'mood' dissipates by the end of the middle phase and becomes.. 'brighter' (?) as it heads to the end.

Big labdanum (leather) note. Also smoky (not incense tho; woodsmoke). Florals are mild and quickly dissipate. Faint background of buttery, sexy amber. Sexy and unusual. Def unisex.

Wow it is a beautiful powdery scent.Rich ,excellent and similar to it's grand brother Cuir Velours a little.
I love it and it's perfumer Julien Rasquinet.
Bravo
8/10

For no other reason other than I like how I feel when I wear this. Initially I reserved my judgement when I sampled but was smitten the second time around. I am a fan of the whole range but this had quickly become a favorite. Iris yes and smoke yes. How sweet life is.

This a perfume for all seasons with a beautiful powdery and floral scent. I also can smell some balsamic and woody scent. I think the main notes are Iris and Tobacco mixed with Violet and Labdanum and some spicy stuff. Both longevity and projection are good. Yesterday I bought a bottle of this product and added to my collection.

Gorgeous, gorgeous! Starts off with a kind of smoky, floral violet. Very unique and so exciting compared to all the sweet stuff being marketed nowadays.
Dry down is a soft floral but with an edge to it that still keeps this perfume very original.

Beautiful perfume. Opens with a blast of Iris and burned woods, a great contrast, really mesmerising. Middle notes are violets, but not too harsh or too fresh, some green tones, and it has a slightly 'creamy' note to it which I can't define. Very soft and round, less contrast than at the opening. The dry down appears to have some faint musks, the clean type, and it becomes a skin scent, slightly floral, definitely sensual. I want to cuddle up to this smell. Pretty unisex to my nose, but whatever, I think gendering perfumes is outdated. Gorgeous smells, I'm thinking of buying a full bottle.

Scent - iris, violet & labdanum.

Season/Time of Day - I prefer to use this one in the warmer months, day or night.

Projection - I didn't get noticed, I didn't get a compliment.

Longevity - I get 8hrs consistently.

I have a thing for smoke and and iris and after reading so many rave reviews about this fragrance from bloggers and members of a certain Facebook forum, it seemed like as close to a sure thing as you can get with perfume. But I do not get this one. Possibly it just doesn't work with my chemistry because it smells very flat and dull on me. Projection was nonexistent and it faded quickly. A plain Jane iris note and something that I identify as candle wax though I suppose it could be a waxy lipstick. Odori Iris, Iris Taizo and Vanille d'Iris all offer more compelling (and smoky) iris scents.

First, iris - very concrete.

Then, ash. Like, fine cigar ash, with the ghost of the sweetness of unsmoked tobacco.Chewy, almost.

At this point, I was a bit put off, but in about an hour and half, it settled into beautiful white flowers, leather, and a touch of musk.

I don't know whether it's something I'd ever really wear out since I don't want to smell like cigar ashes half the day before the impressive drydown, but it's interesting experience. Very creatively blended.

Naomi Goodsir is a line I want to like more than they’ll let me. While I own (and thoroughly enjoy) Bois d’Ascese, and my interactions with Naomi and Renaud have been great, Cuir Velours failed to capture my attention, and Or du Serail came apart a little too easy. Iris Cendré is a great concept that fails on a technical level — which is a shame as parts of it are very enjoyable.

It starts with juicy, almost bubble-gum effect over a rooty iris; a touch carrot-y and semi-sweet akin to CdG’s Sugi. Bois d’Ascese’s smoke prowls around in the background, and a chalky, papery note moves in (it smells quite literally like stationery — almost the way a licked envelope tastes). The iris keeps a healthy distance from “powder” or “cosmetic,” but it’s a tad flat as the result. More surprising is that the structure is easily determined (iso e and an evernyl-type note). The effect of the opening is definitely rooty iris, but it’s spiked with an earthy, concrete-like accord that’s quite bland (Narciso Rodriguez springs to mind).

The real disappointment, though, is that the scent flies through its cool opening and arrives at its unremarkable base in under 15 minutes. The base has a slight tobacco quality to it (although it smells more like an ashtray than a cigar) that’s merged with a dull cement and slight smoke accord. It’s spun mineralic from the evernyl, but it reminds me too much of Aventus sans pineapple — that same kind of serviceable yet generic deodorant effect. It’s boring, but it’s not unappealing. What is unappealing, though, is how fast it gets to that point. Sadly, Iris Cendré is a textbook example of a scent that collapses too fast.

Rasquinet is a talented perfumer, and Goodsir is a real purveyor of taste, but I suspect that this partnership could use a break. Goodsir would benefit from going more “outsider” and “punk” — or at least pushing her ideas further. Iris Cendré hints at what could be done with iris, but the implementation is too mediocre to warrant the asking price.

رماد السوسن أو السوسن الرمادي أتمنى تكون الترجمة صحيحة (وإن كان هناك فعلاً نوع من أنواع زهرة السوسن ذو لون أسود) العطر من دار نعومي جوديسر مصممة الأزياء السويسرية.
Iris Cendre Naomi Goodsir for women and men
لزهرة السوسن عشااااااق كثر في عالم العطور وأنا منهم، مايميز هذه النوته بالنسبة لي أنها محببةً للنفس وذات عبير يبعث الراحه عبير مخدر وإن وجدتها مكررة في عطر آخر ستجد نفسك تقف دائما مفتوناُ أمام جمالها المتأنق والمتألق دوماً.

زهرة السوسن تستخدم في كثير في العطور الباودرية فهي ذات طابع باودري أقرب لرائحة المساحيق بجانب لمحات خشبية بارده ولمحات مخدرة هذا هو شكلها الدائم (الموظف) في كثير من العطور ومن أمثلة تلك النوته وتوجدها (ديور أوم، أمواج الخامس، وعطر الطاحونه الحمراء وغيرها من العطور)...

وصف العطر
عطرنا اليوم أراد ان ترقص السوسن رقصة شرقية خلاف المعهود تحت وقع أنغام شرقية من العنبر و اللابندوم والبخور لتجعله عطراً مناسباً للجنسين دون أدنى شك وتجعله عطر يجسد ذلك الاسم!

بداية العطر عبير من الفلورا (المنعشه) التي بطلها زهرة (السوسن) بملامحها المعهودة التي ذكرتها أعلاه، مع لمحات خضراء بارده والفلفل الوردي أجده يتصف بتلك الصفات هذه هي البداية رائحة من الفلورا الباودريه ا الأقرب في رائحتها (للمساحيق) وتحديداً (أحمر الشفاه) ولمحات خضراء

سريعا تلك الفاتنه الرهيبة الحيوية زهرة السوسون وبمساندة زهرة البنفسج يأبون إلا ان يتمايلا رقصاً! على وقع أنغام شرقية من البخور كاحساس، ولمحات من اللابندوم السويتي والعنبر ولمحات خشبية ذاب طابع سموكي لنضفي لمسة ذكورية ذات طابع (خشبي سمكوي مع لمحات ليذرية وربما ذلك الامتزاج خلف هذا الاحاس بتواجد الجلود، يستمر العطر طويلاً على هذا الشكل مع خفوت تدريجي لنوته زهرة السوسن واستمرار زهرة البفنسج بالبقاء لفترة أطول من السوسن وهي تتقن الانسجام ومقاومه وقع تلك الانغام الشرقية، هذه هي روح وجوهر هذا العطر والذي يصبح في مراحلة الأخيرة ذو عبير خشبي خفيف مع لمحات مسكية خشبية! (الايزو سوبر مثالاً لذلك)

حوهر هذا العطر ذكرني كثيراً بعطر رائع وهو من روائع العطور التي تعاملت مع السوسن ألا وهو عطر أوبس الخامس
Opus V Amouage
فتلك اللمحة السويتيه من الرم في امواج أجدها هنا استبدلت بالبنفسج بدلا من مشروب الرم ،فمع هذا العطر ستشعر بنفس تلك الأجواء في اوبس الخاس من أمواج وربما يكون هذا العطر بديلاً مناسب من ناحية السعر ومن ناحية من لم يحب قاعدة عطر أوبس الخامس.
العطر يستحق التجربه والإقتناء لجميع محبي زهرة السوسن ذات الطابع الشرقي العصري الأنيق.
مكونات العطر:
البرقموت واليوسفي (لاضفاء طابع منعش) وليست بطابع واضح ولهذا لم اذكرها الا في كلمة انتعاش!
الفلفل الوردي،البنفسج،السوسون، نوتة اتعطي رائحة الورود او باقة الورد،العنبر، اللابندوم، التبغ.
الأنف الذي يقف خلف العطر ومعظم عطور هذه الدار هو :
Julien Rasquinet
الذي يعد عطره الشاي الروسي المفضل حتى الآن ويلية هذا العطر حسب ماجربت من عطوره.

هذا مالدي أتمنى ينال أعجابكم العطر في حال تجربته.
صل على النبي ولاتنس ذكر الله ابداً ودائماً
تحياتي:
سعد

The base notes of Iris cendré remind me a lot of the base notes from Cuir Velours
Too similar. I wished more from Iris cendré

Opens with the smell of a popsicle stick after it has been eaten down to the wood. Not at all foolhardy, this elementary incense of a fragrance definitely impresses with a new wave type of feel. Just as quick as i fell in love, i fell out of love. It doesn't take long for this to move towards that familiar odorous floral commonplace....and this is when Naomi Goodsir's offering turns to Naomi Badsir. In the drydown, gone are the juicy green facets atop the woody base. Also, no longer present is the sweet baby powder coming from the iris. Instead, what you're left with is a generic base of barely noticeable amber juxtaposed with some floral musky components. Overall, Iris Cendre is pleasant enough to tolerate but one can't help but think of the better options on the market given the 3hr longevity.